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Teaching Notes: Assessment of Weather/Environment, Surfing Soup, Beach Assessment

SHORT PRESENTATION NOTES


WEATHER, ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS, SITE SPECIFIC CONSIDERATIONS:


Weather/Environmental:

Use forecast and local knowledge to determine:

-  Wind direction/strength (offshore wind holds up faces but may increase as you move offshore, onshore tends to collapse)

  • Temperature and likelihood of rain (potential for hypothermia)
  • TIde Tables to determine time of low vs high tide
  • Predicted swell size/type/direction from NOAA buoy reports, web sites (magicseaweed/stormsurf)
  • Weather Radio is a key tool


Site Specific (use on-site observation to evaluate above as well as):

  • Current weather
  • Swell size/type/direction
  • Wind
  • Current and tide conditions
  • Beach shape, obstacles and hazards
  • Direction of potential swims (against tide, current or wind?), into rocks?
  • Distance from assistance in the event of rescue difficulty?
  • Availability of suitable medical services?
  • Is this site above my personal skill level or the skill level of my group?  Be conservative!




ASSESSING SURF CONDITIONS, SURF ZONE DANGERS, RIPS, BEACH SUITABILITY:


Surf Zone Dangers:

  1. Beach Type:  point or beach break, jetties, river mouth
  1. Bottom topography:  steep beach = short/steep, gentle slope = longer, spilling, sandbars, channels at reef breaks
  2. Swell arrival direction:  direct or angled
  3. Beach condition:  rocky or sandy
  4. Hazards:  logs / rocks on beach, logs /rocks in the water, environmental conditions (tide, wind, swell height)
  5. Other users (surfers in/on any craft, fishermen, beachgoers, wildlife)
  6. Protected areas/risks:  protection from point/jetty based on swell/wind direction?
  7. Will swim away from danger be into the wind or current?


Rip Evaluation:

  1. Typical locations:  ends of bays, along jetties/rocks, at intervals down beach
  2. Recognition:  visible outflow, foam line, break and/or more chaotic swell section
  3. Use of Rips:  aid in return to lineup, riding rip shoulders/seams
  4. Hazard of Rips:  risk of paddling out to conditions bigger than anticipated, speed of current, impact on swimmers (strategies to help manage the current)



Beach Suitability:

  1. Patience in assessment:  typical swell cycle can be 20 or more minutes
  2. Objective assessment of swell, wind, beach conditions/hazards, environmental factors
  3. Realistic assessment of personal/group abilities that day


Wrap up:

  1. Conservative approach
  2. Go/No-go decisions: willingness to go to the coffee shop today???





IN THE SOUP BRACING, SIDE SURFING, ROLLING ROLLING IN THE SOUP:


Bracing in the soup:

  • Practice - Begin practicing with low brace in small conditions with paddle horizontal and sitting sideways to the braking wave (instructor spotter as required)
  • Find the balance point
  • Once comfortable with the low brace, practice high brace (Paddler’s Box)
  • Practice in bigger breaking waves until comfortable



Side Surfing:

  • Once comfortable with bracing positions, ready to practice side surfing
  • Expect aeration and “bouncyness” to decrease boat’s stability and paddle effectiveness
  • Practice steering (leaning back with high brace toward the stern (maintain Paddler’s Box)
  • Weight forward and paddle brace forward will allow backsurf (maintain SA)


Rolling in the soup:

  • Spotter helps initially
  • Discuss psychological issues associated with combat roll (dark, turbulent, cold)
  • Relaxation!
  • Practice in slightly more than waist deep water and preferably sandy bottom (no rocks)
  • Always begin from good position (tuck forward for protection)
  • Expect aeration and “bouncyness” to decrease boat’s stability and paddle effectiveness here too
  • If possible, wait until the the wave releases you (motion has stopped) - usually just a second or two but will seem longer
  • Easiest to begin roll into wave as wave lifts you
  • roll down-current/wind is easier
  • Practice EVERY session!!!
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